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Herb growing guide
Shatavari is a spiny, climbing wild asparagus grown for its cluster of fleshy tuberous roots. Its hard black seed is slow and uneven to sprout, and the crop needs a support to climb and at least a year in the ground.
Freshness matters more than any treatment. In a Kerala Forest Research Institute study, fresh untreated seed reached 98.8% germination, but it took up to 90 days to finish. Sow seed as soon as possible after harvest and do not let it dry out completely in storage.
Not needed. Acid scarification was tested and did not raise final germination.
Not needed. Shatavari is sown at the start of the monsoon in warm soil.
Sources differ. The National Medicinal Plants Board (NMPB) agro-technique advises presoaking in water to soften the hard seed coat (and gives a 24-hour cow-urine soak as a traditional option). The Kerala study found that none of eleven pre-treatments, including a 4-hour water soak, improved final germination, and soaking in boiled water damaged the seed. A plain room-temperature water soak overnight is harmless and makes the seed easier to handle; never use hot water.
Shatavari is not fussy: in Pantnagar tests, final germination did not differ significantly between 20, 25, 30 and 35 °C (68-95 °F), while seedling vigour was highest at 20 °C (68 °F). In India, normal early-monsoon temperatures are suitable.
Sow in lines about 5 cm (2 in) apart and cover with a thin layer of fine sand, so the slow seedlings do not have to push through a crust.
Use a nursery bed enriched with well-rotted farmyard manure or compost. For the main bed, choose well-drained, fertile sandy loam to clay loam with pH 6-8.
Keep the bed evenly moist for the whole germination period, which can run for weeks. Avoid waterlogging: very wet soil causes root rot later.
Bright light or light shade during germination; full or partial sun afterwards.
In NMPB nursery practice, germination begins after about 20 days and is complete by about 30 days. Under test conditions a few seeds kept appearing for up to about 90 days, so do not discard a tray too early.
Seedlings are ready at about 45 days. Transplant at the onset of the monsoon (July in NMPB practice) onto ridges 45 cm (18 in) apart with plants 15 cm (6 in) apart; ridges are better than flat beds because they drain and let the roots swell. Water immediately after planting and again about 7 days later.
Provide stakes, a fence or shrubs for the vines to climb from the start. Weed and hoe about three times in the first two months; after that the foliage covers the ground and suppresses weeds.
Use a large, deep pot with a free-draining mix and a trellis, because the tuberous roots spread wide and deep over more than a year.
NMPB practice sows the nursery in the first week of June and plants out in July. Shatavari is a semi-arid to subtropical plant that grows without irrigation where 800-1200 mm of rain is well distributed.
Irrigate if a dry spell lasts more than 15 days, about every 30 days in winter, and 3-4 times between March and June.
Tubers can be lifted after 12 months, but a 20-month crop gives better yields. Dig in November-December when the top growth turns pale yellow.
Seed is harvested from crops older than about 20 months. Sources differ on ripeness: NMPB collects seed in March-May when berries turn from red to black, while the Kerala study found seed from green, not-yet-coloured berries germinated better (97%) than seed from crimson berries (63%). Sow it fresh either way.
Sow shatavari at the start of the monsoon and give it a trellis to climb.
Usually 20-30 days in a nursery bed, and some seeds can take up to about 90 days. Keep the bed moist and be patient.
An overnight soak in room-temperature water is commonly advised to soften the hard coat, though research found fresh seed germinates just as well without it. Never use hot or boiling water.
Yes. It is a spiny climber; give it stakes, a fence or a trellis from the time you transplant.
From about 12 months after planting, with better yields at around 20 months. Dig when the top growth turns pale yellow.
